Special Needs Birds (Guest Post)

So what's a special needs bird, anyway?

Vet Wrap is great, because when it gets dirty, it is easy to replace.

It’s a term that means a bird with some sort of impairment that requires accommodation from its human caregivers and its environment. There are many types of “special needs birds”, and all have different needs. Some are hatched that way, others get into accidents or suffer from ailments, but all are fantastic companions!

While some accommodation is necessary, these birds live happy, healthy productive lives. Here are some of the types of special needs birds we have cared for at Squawk and Howl (in rescue, cage remodeling services, and in pet sitting)

1. birds with feet or legs missing/paralyzed.
Birds of this type need accommodations such as ladders to climb and perch upon (hang them horizontally as a type of wide perch), platforms to rest upon, and huts and hammocks to sleep in. These birds tend to prefer rope perches to harder wood ones. “Vet wrap” is always a great gripper to wrap around cage furnishings and perching areas for these birds.

2. birds with no or only partial beaks.
In addition to having some mobility issues (birds use their beaks as a third foot to climb, for example), these birds may have some eating issues, too. They cannot mascerate their food the way a beaked hookbill can, so small, pulverized, and/or mushy foods are key to helping these birds. To make foods that are made especially for beakless birds, you can use a food processor and add moisture to pellets, seed and sprout mixes and veggies to make a thick paste or slurry, depending on your bird’s preference. Momma Bird's Birdie Bread can be mushed up with vegetable or chicken broth into a slurry or paste, and still tastes just as great!

Here is a blend of highly chopped mash-
all organic fresh veggies, using a food processor.

3. deaf birds.
Birds that cannot hear or see can be easily startled, and for a prey animal, that’s scary business. They need a slow, calm person to live with, as sudden movements seem to startle them more. Deaf birds can easily be accommodated with a visual signal that you will be entering the room, much like a doorbell or phone “ringer” in a deaf person’s home.

4. birds that have emotional issues from serious neglect or abuse.
Oftentimes, the invisible “disabilities” are the hardest to accommodate. They look “normal” but many birds that were rescued from bad situations (not just simple re-homed birds dealing with grief, but actual rescues that are survivors) have “baggage” that you need to compassionately discover and learn how to work around. These birds have legitimate fears (that sometimes translate into aggression or phobic behaviors) that need to be respected. And in my case, I personally had a bird Angus who was in “solitary confinement” with NO social interaction for 21 years before he came to live with me. My advice? Go slow, on the bird’s time-line--not yours. Celebrate the victories, no matter how small. And learn what these birds will teach you.

5. blind birds.
Just like with humans, blind birds need accommodations that don’t change very often. A basic cage layout, food & water always in the same place, etc. Toys can be rotated, but they should stay in the same areas that toys go in that cage. And toys that spin or move don’t work for this group. A minimal cage layout is best for blind birds, and yes! they can be housed with others. Often the birds will cooperate & help one another. Foot toys and shreddables work just great for birds who are blind.

6. pluckers and self-mutilators
Pluckers and self-mutilators do it for so many reasons, and medical testing is necessary to eliminate physical causes before assuming that the issue is behavioral. I will post further about plucking for more info on that. And just because a bird plucks or mutilates does not mean that they are unhappy, in a bad home, or being abused or neglected. Some of the most caring and wonderful bird parents out there have pluckers and mutilators. That said, living with a plucker is much easier than living with a self-mutilator (a bird who inflicts wounds to their flesh). Mutilators are often hospitalized, collared, and given lupron injections to deal with the problem. It can be costly and is certainly a commitment.

As always, be sure to check out Momma Bird's Cafe and Toy Shoppe for the very best toys that aim at redirecting a lot of this unwanted behavior, like shreddable and foraging toys!


Now through Sept 2nd, enter code specialneeds to get free shipping on orders over $100!

Aaah, Summer Hormones! (Guest post)

Got a question a while back from a hen owner whose bird is shrieking for her ALL THE TIME and presenting her vent to her as well. She pleaded for help. Here is my answer (which applies to both chronic egg layers, regurgitators, compulsive masturbators, overly-bonded-to-one-person-birds, and possibly hormonal pluckers. It applies to both hens and cocks.):

Parrot-type birds only wanna have babies and have sex when the conditions are right. Sadly, in our attempt to be good bird parents, we sometimes provide these conditions without even knowing it!

Here are the ideal conditions for having a clutch:

Shrieking parrots? Could be hormones!

SPRING AND SUMMER. Extended daylight hours send the signal that it is mating season.
Solution- a sleeping cage in a quiet room away from family hubbub, where s/he can get 12 hours of dark & quiet.

ABUNDANCE OF FOOD. When we overload the dish with lots of food, we are sending the signal that there is not only enough for her, but enough for babies.
Solution- a sprinkling of food, not a bowl full. And if they eat it all, refill with (again) just another sprinkling. Don’t starve them, but don’t give them so much that they are playing with their food, either!

RICHNESS OF FOOD. What is your bird’s main diet? If you said “seeds”, you should work on converting her/him to a pellet based diet supplemented by greens veggies and fruits. They are lower in fat. Cut out rich fatty foods like seed, nuts, treats, & such when she gets crazed like this. When a hen 'tiel I know starts acting this way, she gets enough pellets to last her a couple hours (a mere sprinkling) and greens only. No seed, no other fun foods. (Boy, does she give her bird parent the evil eye--but no eggs!)

Too much couple time and not enough larger flock
time can lead to hormonal rages.

PRESENCE OF A “MATE” (real or imagined). If you are her perceived mate, you should shun her when she acts randy, and only touch her head, neck, beak (not the skin attaching her beak to her face, though), and her feet. Full body stroking (cockatoo owners, are you listening?!), touching of wings, back, tail, etc are sexual to a bird. Do not send her that message.


PRESENCE OF A “NEST SITE” (real or imagined). Remove any huts, tents, boxes, cubbies, etc. Rearrange her cage & play areas so that they are sparse and have no dark areas.

SAFETY (familiar surroundings she knows are safe) TO RAISE A CLUTCH. Move the location of her cage to another side of the room, add a new strange toy in there or rearrange the cage so it is unfamiliar. Move her food cups from where they usually are.

MATE TIME VS. FLOCK TIME. Make sure that lots of the time she is out of her cage is “flock time” not one-on-one “mate time”, if possible. Is she your only bird? If so, then “flock time” is as many humans in the house as possible + her. “Mate time” is time she spends alone one-on-one with you. Make more of her time (when possible) flock time and when she must have mate time, do not encourage her advances at all. Ignore screaming, masturbation, seduction attempts, regurgitation. Do not allow her to seek out dark spaces at any time. Start eating meals as a flock, and have her shower (in the shower) with various members of your household (not just you).

Excessive stroking and hiding inside or under
things is a big no no.

DRY SEASON. Birds have more of a sex drive in the hot long days of the dry season, not winter (the wet season). Take away the illusion of ideal conditions by showering (and I mean drenching the bird!) frequently.

Creating conditions opposite to ideal for creating a clutch is the way to cool off those raging hormones! Redirect those instinctual behaviors! Giving your bird a behavioral "out" to take their instincts to is an excellent but not often talked-of strategy. Foraging toys and shreddables are the best tools for this trick. There are some great choices at Momma Bird's Toy Shoppe and Cafe!

The author is the founder of Squawk and Howl, and has worked with parrots as a behaviorist, sitter, and rescuer.

Coupon Code:  cooldown for free shipping when you buy $50 or more!

Parrot Toys: More than "just a toy"

This guest post is by the owner of Squawk and Howl, a parrot centric pet sitting and parrot behavioral consulting business. for more info check out their website.

In my work with people and their parrots, I often recommend toys. I have heard common refrains from people with parrot behavioral issues: “Oh I gave him some toys once, but he wasn’t interested, so I stopped buying them.”

This is not the right attitude. Toys are NOT optional in the life of a captive parrot. Why? Parrots are wild creatures with all their instincts intact. Toys exist for them to harness those wild instincts and make the bird more suitable for life in a human home. quite simply, if a parrot does not have these outlets, behavioral issues likely ensue.

To that end, I have identified six specific instincts that need channeling for many birds, and the toys that help with that behavior:

The Six Kinds of Parrot Toys
(many fall into more than one category!)

Foraging Toys

Wild Behavior this replaces:
Parrots spend 6-8 hours a day hunting for food. It satisfies their mind & body. Studies show that most animals, including parrots, would rather work for a food- even if that same food is readily available to them without work. It gives them a sense of purpose and accomplishment. You are doing your bird no favors by serving it food in a dish and not giving it a job to do.

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Destructable/Shreddable Toys
Wild Behavior this replaces:
Parrots are nature’s composters: they take a bite of food & let it fall to the forest floor. They chew wood & other materials to trim beaks, make nesting cavities, & sleeping burrows & generally make a huge mess. It is in their nature. If you haven’t enticed your bird to use one of these toys, perhaps you should try different shapes and textures.



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Puzzle/Manipulative Toys
Wild Behavior this replaces:
Parrots are highly intelligent creatures that, like humans, get smarter the more you challenge them. Teach your parrot cause and effect, how to control its own environment and other like-minded principles that these toys teach and your parrot will have healthy self-esteem and understand the world better.

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Preening Toys
Wild Behavior this replaces:
Birds preen one another’s heads (allopreening) for grooming AND bonding purposes, and preening themselves and flock members can be very soothing. Preening toys are like pacifers for stressed birds, feather pluckers, lone birds in a cage, and specific breeds (like cockatiels) in particular.



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Acrobatic/ Athletic Toys
Wild Behavior this replaces:
Encouraging climbing, flapping, swinging and other athletic ventures replaces natural exercise the bird would have in the wild. Sitting in a cage all day while we are at work is just unnatural!

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Creative Toys
Wild Behavior this replaces:
Again, parrots in the wild use tools, create things, and make lots of noise. This is a “blowing off steam” kind of toy, as well as teaching cause & effect. Noisemaking, nest weaving (in Quakers), painting, and other activities fall in this category.

Be sure and teach your parrot how to play with these new toys- toys are a displacement tool, and they do not inherently know how to play with them.

Be sure and check out Momma Bird's toy selection! Get 20% off any toys (and as many toys as you want!) when you purchase at least one bag of birdie bread (between now and August 31st). Just enter code toysaremandatory when checking out in the coupon code box.